Dec./24/2019
Ｍｅｒｒｙ Ｃｈｒｉｓｔｍａｓ
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2019/12/24 7:15
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2020年1月16日 弟正徳77歳の誕生日、用事で日本に帰国していたが、1月18日の土曜日、神戸へ立ち寄りわが家を訪ねて来た。私たち夫婦は正徳の喜寿の祝いのささやかなお祝いをした。翌日の日曜日は朝から鵯越の母とジャネットさんの墓参りに行き、そのあと東京へ旅立ち、元気で幸せな日々を願って別れた。このあとまた会えるだろうか、正徳は去年長年のグリーンカードでの滞在をやめて米国国籍を取ったので、このままオレゴンに住むつもりだ。神戸を発って鎌倉の弟光司の家へ向かったが、そこでも光司や隆子夫妻、光司の子供たちが集まって彼の喜寿を祝ったそうだ。
Tough teeth: The custom of eating zōni soup began when people hit upon the idea of softening hard mochi rice cakes in stews. | MAKIKO ITOH
Food & Drink | JAPANESE KITCHEN
Whether it's sweet or savory, zōni soup is a new year mainstay
by Makiko Itoh Contributing Writer
The word “mochi“ has slowly been creeping into English vernacular to describe sweetened dumplings made with a sticky short-grain rice. But in Japanese, mochi simply refers to mochi-mai (steamed short-grain rice) that’s been pounded into a smooth, sticky dough. For centuries, mochi has been a part of festive occasions in Japan, especially during the new year holidays. Kagamimochi (round, stacked “mirror mochi”) is used as a sacred offering to the gods, and mochi in general is the staple food of the holiday period, replacing steamed rice. The center of new year holiday meals is zōni, or ozōni (a hearty soup with mochi cakes in it).
Unlike the clear broth used in most Kanto-style zōni, Kyoto-style zōni uses a white miso soup base and round, instead of square, mochi. | MAKIKO ITOH
The tradition of eating mochi at New Year’s started in the imperial court during the Heian Period (794-1185), when it was used during the Shinto “Hagatame no Gi” (“Tooth-hardening Ceremony”) ritual to wish for longevity and good health.
The ceremony got its name from the difficulties of eating osagari (mochi left out in the open as an offering to the gods). By the time humans were allowed to eat them, the mochi had hardened, testing the teeth. The custom of eating zōni started in the Muromachi Period (1392-1573), when people finally hit upon the idea of softening the hard, dry mochi by stewing them.
In the Edo Period (1603-1868), as the nation became prosperous and agriculture more productive, the current style of eating fresh (or quickly dried and grilled) mochi spread widely among regular people. Regions developed their own recipes for zōni, differences that persist to this day.
According to the National Mochi Manufacturers Association, there are three main types of zōni. Miso soup-based zōni is prevalent in the Kansai region, where the preference is for round, individual mochi cakes, rather than the square ones cut from a large sheet typical in the rest of the country. Another type, popular in Tottori Prefecture, has a sugar-sweetened adzuki bean base, much like oshiruko (a sweet mochi and bean dessert). The third type, which is eaten everywhere else, has a clear soup base. But within those categories there are dozens of variations on what ingredients are added to the broth, from seafood to vegetables, chicken or other meat, even nuts.
This recipe is from the Tokyo-central Kanto region, where I grew up. There are differences in zōni styles even within Tokyo — for instance, sometimes the stock is made with chicken bones rather than, or in addition to, konbu seaweed and katsuobushi (skipjack tuna). You can use this recipe to get the basics of zōni down, but I encourage you to adopt the style of your in-laws, if you can.
Recipe: Kanto-style zōni (New Year’s mochi soup)
Ingredients (serves 4)
• 800 milliliters cold water
• 10 centimeter-square dried konbu seaweed (about 10 grams)
• 10 grams (a large handful) katsuobushi (skipjack tuna flakes)
• 120 grams boneless chicken thighs
• 1 tablespoon sake
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 4 to 8 square mochi rice cakes
• ½ bunch (about 100 grams) komatsuna greens
• 4 to 8 pieces carrot
• 3 teaspoons soy sauce
• 4 slices pink and white kamaboko fish cake
• Salt or soy sauce to taste
• A small piece of yuzu citrus zest
Preparation
The night before, put the konbu seaweed in 800 milliliters of water in a closed container. Refrigerate overnight.
Heat the water with the konbu. Just before it starts to boil, add the katsuobushi. Turn off the heat and wait for the katsuobushi to sink to the bottom of the pan. Strain the dashi liquid through a fine mesh sieve lined with a paper towel.
Trim off any excess fat from the chicken and cut into bite-sized pieces. Sprinkle with the sake and salt and marinate for 10 to 15 minutes.
Bring a pot of water to a boil and boil the komatsuna greens for 2 to 3 minutes. Drain, cool under running water and squeeze out tightly. Cut into 3-centimeter pieces.
Bring a small pan of water to a boil. Add a pinch of salt and the carrot pieces. Cook over medium heat until the carrots are tender, about 5 minutes. Drain.
Cut the kamaboko into half-centimeter-thick slices. Cut the yuzu zest into small sticks, then make a slice halfway into each to shape them into pine needles.
Preheat the oven or a toaster oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Line a baking sheet with kitchen parchment paper and space the mochi cakes on it evenly. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the mochi puffs up and is lightly browned.
Heat up the dashi stock and add the chicken. Cook over medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, skimming off any scum. Add the komatsuna, mochi cakes and kamaboko. Simmer until heated through. Taste the soup and add a little soy sauce or salt if needed. Serve in bowls, decorated with the carrot and yuzu peel.
お正月に楽しむ我が家の酒、右は灘神戸酒心館の福寿、ノーベル賞の受賞パーティで日本人の受賞者が出た時必ず振る舞われる純米吟醸、左はカリフォルニアワインのヨセミテロード、セブンイレブンで求めるリーゾナブルワイン。
毎日新聞 女子SPで演技する紀平梨花＝東京・国立代々木競技場で2019年12月19日、佐々木順一撮影
フィギュアスケートの全日本選手権は19日、来年3月の世界選手権（カナダ・モントリオール）の代表選考会を兼ねて東京・国立代々木競技場で開幕し、女子のショートプログラム（SP）は初優勝を目指す紀平梨花（関大KFSC）が73・98点で首位スタートを切った。2年ぶり5回目の頂点を狙う宮原知子（関大）が70・11点の2位、前回女王の坂本花織（シスメックス）は69・95点で3位につけた。女子フリーは21日に行われる。
ペアSPは、三浦璃来、木原龍一組（木下グループ）のみがエントリーし、53・95点をマークした。
男子は20日にSP、22日にフリーを実施。4年ぶりに出場する羽生結弦（ANA）、3連覇中の宇野昌磨（トヨタ自動車）、シングルで最後の出場となる高橋大輔（関大KFSC）らがエントリーしている。世界選手権代表は男女各3選手。
